Helix, Tragus & Conch Piercing Jewellery Guide: What to Wear While Healing

Cartilage piercings are a firm favourite around here - and honestly, we get it. Whether it’s a tiny gem tucked into your tragus, a sleek helix hoop or a statement conch piercing, there are so many ways to style your ears.

But if your piercing is still healing, choosing jewellery isn’t quite as simple as finding the cutest piece and popping it in.

Helix, tragus and conch piercings all pass through ear cartilage, which generally takes longer to heal than your standard lobe piercing. During that time, the jewellery you wear matters - but exactly what’s right for your piercing is something your professional piercer should help you decide.

We’re jewellery people, not piercers, so we’re not here to tell you how to heal your piercing. What we can do is help you understand the different jewellery styles, metals and sizing options you’re likely to come across.

Let’s talk cartilage bling.

First Things First: Is My Cartilage Piercing Healed?

Ahhh, the question everyone wants the answer to.

Unfortunately, there isn't a magic date where you wake up and your piercing officially graduates from healing to healed. Healing times vary depending on the piercing, your anatomy and a whole bunch of other factors.

A piercing can also look pretty settled on the outside while still healing internally.

So if you're itching to swap that original jewellery for the hoop you've had sitting in your cart for three weeks, resist the temptation to diagnose it yourself. Your piercer is the best person to tell you whether your piercing is ready for a jewellery change.

And if you're experiencing pain, unusual swelling, discharge or anything else you're concerned about, that's definitely one for your piercer or healthcare professional - not Google at 1am.

Helix vs Tragus vs Conch: What's the Difference?

They're all cartilage piercings, but they're hanging out in very different parts of your ear.

Helix Piercing

Your helix runs around the outer cartilage of your ear. It's one of the most popular ear piercings and an absolute dream for styling.

Depending on placement and anatomy, helix piercings can be worn with flat back studs, barbells or rings once your piercer says they're suitable.

And once healed? This is where the fun really begins. Think gem clickers, double hoops, chains and stacked combinations.

Tragus Piercing

The tragus is that little piece of cartilage sitting just in front of your ear canal.

Because you're working with a relatively small space, flat back jewellery is incredibly popular here. You can keep things minimalist with a tiny ball or add some sparkle with a gem or decorative top.

Hoops can also create a completely different look in a healed tragus - but anatomy plays a big part in what will fit comfortably.

Conch Piercing

The conch sits in the larger central section of your ear cartilage and gives you two very different styling directions.

You can wear a flat back stud inside the ear for a subtle look, or - once your piercing is healed and suitable for one - wear a larger ring that wraps around the outside of the ear.

Flat Back Studs: A Cartilage Favourite

If you've been browsing cartilage jewellery, you've probably noticed a lot of flat backs.

There's a reason.

Unlike a traditional butterfly-back earring, a flat back labret has a smooth disc sitting behind the piercing. They're neat, low-profile and available with everything from plain balls to tiny gems, opals and statement tops.

You'll generally come across two main styles:

Internally threaded flat backs have a threaded decorative end that screws into the hollow post.

Threadless flat backs use a small pin on the decorative top that fits into the post using tension.

Neither system is automatically the right choice for every person - it often comes down to your piercing, personal jewellery preference or even budget.

The fun part? Once you know the gauge and threading system you're wearing, compatible tops can make changing up your look much easier.

What Metal Should I Choose?

This is one area where it's worth paying attention to the product details rather than choosing purely because something is pretty. 

Implant-Grade Titanium

Titanium is lightweight, corrosion resistant and contains no nickel, making it a popular body jewellery material - particularly for people who know they're sensitive to nickel.

At Cherry, our implant-grade titanium jewellery is ASTM F-136 titanium (Ti-6Al-4V ELI).

If you're shopping for jewellery while your piercing is still healing, talk to your piercer about whether a particular piece and material is appropriate before changing anything.

316L Surgical Stainless Steel

Surgical stainless steel is durable, affordable and one of the most common materials you'll see in body jewellery.

However, stainless steel alloys can contain nickel. If you know you're sensitive to nickel, titanium may be the better option to discuss with your piercer.

PVD Gold Titanium

Love gold but want titanium underneath?

All of our gold titanium pieces use a PVD coating over titanium, giving you that gold look without needing to jump straight into solid gold jewellery.

Again, if your piercing is fresh or still healing, check with your piercer before changing your original jewellery.

What Size Jewellery Do Helix, Tragus and Conch Piercings Use?

Here's where things get slightly annoying:

There is no universal size.

Your anatomy, piercing placement and the way your piercing was performed all affect what size you'll need.

Body jewellery sizing normally involves two important measurements:

Gauge = the thickness of the post or ring.

Length or diameter = the wearable length of a stud/barbell or the internal diameter of a ring.

You'll commonly see cartilage jewellery available in sizes such as 16g (1.2mm) and 18g (1.0mm), but that absolutely does not mean yours will be one of them.

The safest option is to check the size of your existing jewellery or ask your piercer before ordering.

Already have jewellery that fits perfectly? Even better. Measure that rather than trying to measure your ear.

Our Body Jewellery Sizing Guide explains exactly how gauge, length and diameter are measured.

Can I Put a Hoop in My Helix Piercing?

We know. The hoop is calling your name.

But if you've been pierced with a stud, don't take this article as permission to swap it out.

Whether your helix, tragus or conch is ready for a hoop depends on your individual piercing and how it has healed. Your piercer should make that call.

Once your piercing is fully healed, rings open up a whole new world of styling options.

For helix piercings, you might choose a simple hinged clicker, gem ring or double-hoop effect.

For tragus piercings, smaller diameter rings can create a delicate look depending on your anatomy.

For conch piercings, larger diameter hoops can wrap around the outside of the ear and create that distinctive conch-ring look.

Just remember: diameter matters. Two people with exactly the same piercing can need completely different ring sizes.

Downsizing: What's That About?

You might hear your piercer mention downsizing during the healing process.

Initial piercing jewellery may have extra length to allow for swelling. As things settle, a piercer may recommend changing to a shorter post so you're not walking around with unnecessary extra length.

That's not the same thing as deciding your piercing is healed and going on a jewellery-changing spree.

If you've been told it's time to downsize, ask your piercer what gauge and wearable length you need. Once you have those measurements, shopping becomes approximately 847% easier.

Jewellery Shopping While Your Piercing Is Healing

Found something you absolutely need for your ear stack but you're not ready to wear it yet?

You can still plan ahead.

Save your favourites, work out your eventual ear stack and get familiar with the jewellery styles available for your piercing. Just don't rush changing your jewellery because you're impatient to wear the pretty thing.

We've all been there.

When your piercer gives you the green light, you'll be ready.

Ready to Build Your Ear Stack?

Once you know what jewellery is appropriate for your piercing, the good stuff begins.

Explore our Cartilage Piercing Jewellery for the whole range, or head straight to our Helix Piercing Jewellery, Tragus Piercing Jewellery or Conch Piercing Jewellery collections if you know exactly what you're shopping for.

If flat backs are your thing, you can also browse our Flat Back Studs and mix up your look with different tops, gems and styles.

And if you're staring at 16g, 18g, 6mm and 8mm wondering when jewellery shopping turned into a maths exam, check out our Ultimate Body Jewellery Sizing Guide (under 'News' in the top menu) before ordering.

One Last Thing...

We love body jewellery. We sell body jewellery. We can help you understand our materials, measurements and how our jewellery works.

But we're not professional piercers.

If your cartilage piercing is fresh, still healing, irritated or you're unsure whether it's ready for different jewellery, your piercer should always be your first stop.

Once they tell you what size and style you're ready for?

That's where we come in. 🍒